![]() My plan is to leave them in the bigger pots until our backyard is all finished, so potentially they may need to stay in pots for about 4 weeks. ![]() Keeping adequate light source and a fan to mimic wind will help create stronger plants with thicker stems. Either way I don’t want to miss planting tomatoes so I bought some decent sized cheap pots (33cm x 26cm (13 x 10.25)) to transfer the seedlings into these larger pots. Be sure to water your seedlings as soon you’ve transplanted them and add more soil if it sinks down. If you have a very leggy plant you can gently bend the stem so that most of it is inside the pot and it’s not sticking out too much. Keep adding soil until the base of the cotyledons. Aim to transplant 12 seedlings into a half-sized seed tray. Gently press the soil down around the plant as you add the soil, otherwise after you water you’ll end up with it sinking down. Gently firm the compost around the seedling. Since the potting compost comes with the plant and the roots are undisturbed, plants raised. Holding them by the base of the plant, place them in the center of the soil, then while carefully holding the seedling in the middle, add more soil around the plant. Pot- or cell tray-grown plants are especially easily transplanted. Water the seedlings a few hours before you transplant them, so that the stems and leaves are turgid and the growing mix will stick to and protect the roots. Dampen the mix, fill your containers and poke a hole for each transplant. If using a soilless mix you may need to feed your seedlings. After they are clean get them ready and fill them half-full with seed starter soil, at this stage I also add a sprinkling or worm castings in the center. Use a lightweight potting mix or a soilless mix. Make sure you disinfect your seeding trays and pots first. After sorting through your seedlings and checking which ones are the healthiest you’re ready to move them into larger pots.
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